Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts

Saturday, May 4, 2013

South Island

Picton is a very pretty, quiet and small town. For most people it is the gateway to New Zealand's south if they are coming from the North Island. For us it was first and foremost a place of a very unexpected but happy reunion as well as a big disappointment. The latter was the realization that we would not be able to meet up with our favourite Dutchman and good friend Tycho. He had trouble selling his van and I had to sort out the return of my bond (Australian bureaucracy funtions on the primitive level of an amoeba) so we just missed each other. The worst about the story is that I am STILL waiting for my bond and could have just had a beer with him...
Lovely Picton

We were however rather surprised to see two familiar faces on a free overnight parking spot just outside of Picton. Chris and Stef, who we got to know in Adelaide, were just getting settled as we pulled up next to them. Neither of us originally planned to go to NZ - and yet we met in this most unlikely of places and had a good nights chat.

We decided to head towards Abel Tasman (New Zealands smallest national park) where we experienced the most furious of welcomes in form of a torrential downpour. Spending the afternoon in the library and the night on a carpark in Motueka was thus our option of choice. After an early start the sun greeted us and we had a nice 30 km hike through dense rainforest, past golden beaches and turquoise waters.
Impressions of Abel Tasman

Yet another reunion and two pints later (with a friend from Switzerland) we parked the van at the same location as the previous night. Just as we started to cook dinner a friendly ranger explained to us (very apologetically I might add) that we were not a self contained vehicle and thus not allowed to stay here overnight. On a side note he added (with a smirk and a twinkle) that he was the sole ranger this night and would not be patrolling North of our location. That was the direction we took after dinner. As luck would have it everyone was stopped by the police just north of the town. The officer made it clear to me (in a very likeable fashion) that he thought my reason driving at night was drink driving. He pulled out a device, about as wide as my fist, stuck in under my nose and asked me to count to ten. On a side note I need to mention that we blow into a small tube for alcohol testing back home. Still confused about how I should count to ten being gagged by this huge object I took a deep breath, tore open my mouth like a baby eagle prior to being fed and went for glory. The policeman hastily pulled back the device, visibly shocked, and was now fully convinced that I was drunk. A few explanation later I counted to ten -   this time into the device but at a two inch distance. The screen said 'zero alcohol', very much to the surprise of the officer. He advised us to drive carefully and we reached our camping spot of choice 45 minutes later via a narrow, windy road.

The following day had the highlight of the South Island in store for us. A deserted, stunning beach with a low tide pool which was inhabited by a dozen seal pups. Inquisitive as they were the intruders (us) had to be examined by sniffing feet and hands before forgetting everything around them, chasing each other and playing seaweed tug of war. After two hours and empty camera batteries we reluctantly decided to leave - we could have spent days here.
Baby seals playing on our favourite beach of Golden Bay

Big pacific swells to the west and mountains to the east dominated the landscape in the following days. The coastline makes the Great Ocean Road look pale - the mountains and glaciers however are far behind the Alps. The combination was nevertheless special, at least for a Swiss. 
West coast, top left: pancake rocks bottom right: lake Matheson with the reflection of Mount Tasman and Mount Cook

Inland towns like Wanaka and Queenstown are almost carbon copies of some Swiss locations - mountains, lakes and temperatures below zero. If it wasn't for the architecture and language I could have been fooled...
Switzerland - like images in the centre of the South Island...

On the east coast we were lucky enough to observe the yellow eyed penguins (only ~ 1000 left in NZ) coming ashore and setting up a spot to sleep mere metres away from us.
Christchurch was our last stop. Still damaged by the 2011 earthquake it was a fitting scenery to our slightly melancholic farewell mood. On one hand it was fascinating to see the power of nature and the reconquista of destroyed sites by pioneer plants. On the other hand individual stories and the hardship connected to it which could not be ignored.
Damaged buildings in Christchurch as well as autumn (in March!)

Goodbye New Zealand - unfortunately our dance ended all too soon. But Adelaide, Perth and ultimately southeast Asia are waiting...

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Welcome to New Zealand

To go or not to go - we could not make up our minds for ages. Until, after a few pints at the Duke, we spontaneously decided that New Zealand could not be left out. After all we would never be so close again in the foreseeable future. It also had the positive side effect that a) we would miss out the hottest month in Thailand b) we could counteract the the ever looming danger of overplanitis (a virus against which no real cure exists) and c) the burden of our massive budget would become a bit lighter...:)
We landed in Auckland on the 25th of April, cruised through immigration, bumped straight into the driver of our shuttle, chose a great hostel and, by mere coincidence, found ourselves in the only vegan restaurant in the city. Nothing ever went so smooth in Australia. After we picked up the campervan without any unpleasant surprises I had the creeping suspicion that this was all too good to be true. 50 km on gravel road (20 so gruelling that they don't even deserve that term) to our first camp site and back? Absolutely no issues (worth mentioning that rental 2WDs are not supposed to be taken off sealed roads).
Stoney Beach campground where we spent our first night having fun on the rope swing. Although NZ was fantastic the dent in my trousers (bottom right) is not due to high blood levels in a specific body part...:)

It was the second night on the Coromandel peninsula, after visiting Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach, when the bomb exploded. Biosecurity at AKL forgot to pack the rain fly into my tent bag after inspecting its contents! Wow! Our home for the southeast Asian rainy season in the next six months was suddely as functional as chopsticks for spooning soup. I had no clue what to think or make of this so I decided to laugh - mainly because it is much healthier than hyperventilating. 24 hours and a phone call later we could arrange for a pickup on the return flight and were back on lucky avenue - paved, not cobbled.
Top and bottom left: Cathedral Cove and the way to it, bottom right Hot Water Beach

Still riding on what had now transformed into a tent high we decided to heed the advice of some locals and visited a gully after dawn right next to the camp site. What we experienced there is anything but describable. Galaxies of glowworms left, right, top and bottom surrounded us. We had to sit down in awe next to a waterfall and could not quite grasp what we were seeing. Of course, scientifically speaking, we knew that this emission of light would be connected to some sort of electronically excited states, most likely driven by ATP. But why something, to our senses, so spectacular would evolve was beyond us and we felt utterly small and unimportant. The cold and dampness rudely awoke us from our trance-like state and sadly we had to say goodbye to this most magical of places.
Our budget (maybe not so large as initially stated) dictated only short stops in Rotorua (massively overpriced) and Taupo, en route to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. According to the DOC (Dept. of Conservation) a "serious 6 - 8 hour hike" which turned out to be a harmless 4.5 hour walk through a surreal but fabulous volcanic moonscape. LOTR fans may be familiar with parts of it (Mount Doom).
Moonscape of the Tongariro alpine crossing. Clouds and blue sky were taking turns very rapidly which added to the tour in our eyes.

A very warm welcome at the house of Elvira's relatives and their neighbours in Hawera designated the penultimate stop before hitting Wellington and setting sails for the South Island.
Hawera's volcano as the sun sets...


Read this blog in German: http://ueberlandindieschweiz.blogspot.com.au/2013/04/willkommen-in-neuseeland.html